Skeleton Coast History

If you tell any local that you’ve taken a trip to the Skeleton Coast, they might raise an eyebrow and say “good for you” before walking away, already having forgotten the conversation. If you mention that you drove all the way to the Angolan border on this trip, and drove along the Kunene River to the east side of the park, then they will be impressed. You see, Skeleton Coast National Park has two sides: the southern half, stretching from the Ugab River to Terrace Bay, is open to the public for an entry fee: N$80 per person, plus N$10 per vehicle per day. Whereas beyond Terrace Bay, the wilderness “truly begins.” As does the end of public access.

Historically, this entire region was once part of Etosha (1906) but was reduced in size in 1967 under the idea that South Africa would make “homelands” for the existing communities, and plans to build a harbor there. The harbor didn’t happen for political reasons and the idea that it would be competing against Walvis Bay. In 1971, South Africa agreed to make the region an official National Park with limited access to a few mining and fishing corporations. This was after the corporations took them to court.

Throughout the coast, whale bones and rusted hulls from shipwrecks scatter the coast line. Fishing enthusiasts drive onto the otherwise empty stretch of beach for a day of fishing and relaxing by the sea. Popular catches along this stretch of Atlantic Ocean include pilchards, anchovy, hake, and horse mackerel. They might even catch kabeljou (aka cod), which can grow up to 2m in length. Seals, seagulls, brown hyenas, and jackals might also be seen loitering on the beach.

Not far from the beach sits spectacular stretches of color changing lichen fields, microscopic yet fabulous Namibian treasures. Depending on the time of day (though morning is the best) the lichen may be purple, orange, red, black, or green. They aren’t plants but rather an extra-combo organism of algae and fungus living together in a symbiotic relationship. The algae draws moisture and nutrients from the air while the fungus anchors them to the ground and draws moisture and nutrients from the soil. It’s a win-win! These delicate creatures can live for thousands of years, and it is not unusual to see fences around lichen fields to protect them from off-road junkies.

For those who desire to see what’s beyond Terrace Bay, an additional permit must be obtained and only through the limited number of tour companies (Karibu, Omalweendo, Skeleton Coast Safaris to name a few) who have earned the concession to travel the Skeleton Coast. The companies that have access get only 24 permits per year to drive and none of them can travel at the same time. Why? To reduce the risk of mass tourism in this area, says Elago, a tour guide with Karibu. They (tour operators and the Ministry of Environment and Tourism) are also concerned with park preservation, so 100% of the trash needs to be driven out as well. It makes sense considering there are literally no trash cans hanging about.

Obviously, more skeletons, shipwrecks, and evolving landscapes continue beyond Terrace Bay for another 334 kilometers. There are explorable riverbeds containing animals and the wildest greenery beyond your imagination, especially after seeing nothing but hours of grey and tan. There are remnants of life from hundreds of years ago when nomads trekked to and from the ocean: 1-2 meter wide circles of granite slabs are scattered across hill crests where animal skins were stretched and dried. More recently, are abandoned domes and equipment once used for amethyst and (hopeful) diamond miners. At the leftover rock beds, close inspection reveals thousands of brilliantly colored geodes, an 8 year old’s excavation dream come true. Even the non-gem rocks are of breathtaking colors, scattered among the barren landscapes that rise and fall beyond the horizon.

After rocks, rivers, and oceans, lie the massive and pure sand dunes. Some of the surfaces are hard packed and easy to drive through. Others, not so much. Driving the dunes means navigating steep angles, soft sand, and rocks that might be buried beneath the surface. It takes a good dose of Dramamine, careful listening to the very experienced guides, and patience. It takes preparation such as extra water, extra tires and wheels, extra tools, rescue equipment, and more miscellaneous items to deal with unforeseen complications. And it takes at least two 4x4 vehicles, as no one can travel alone up here.

At the end of the day, after hours spent driving and exploring, there is time to rest under the Milky Way and the sky’s millions of stars. There’s a fire to build and cozy up to, while drinking a gin & tonic after a delicious, hot meal. And there’s time to soak up the freedom one feels while out on the Skeleton Coast. Lastly, there’s time to sleep (or pass out) from the sheer amount of energy burned while on this massive adventure. On this trip you are guaranteed to sleep like a baby. So, ask yourself: is this trip up north really worth it? The answer: absolutely.

Skeleton Coast National Park
Ugab River entrance

The guide truck

Shipwreck

Ventura Bomber plane wreck

Skeleton Coast

Shelter remnants made by marooned passengers on the Dunedin Star.
The man who erected the Memorial was an infant on the ship that crashed in 1942. 

Sea turtles at Bosluis Bay, 15km south of Angola

Ready for a fight

Khumib Riverbed

Leftover rock formations used to stretch and dry animal skins.

Dunes

Mountains

Family

Taking in the view