Saturday, December 31, 2016

Road trip to Southern Namibia

No Schlink car trip can ever start off without my preoccupation with stockpiling essentials like snacks, water, and sunscreen. Mark worries about much less important things like printing out proof of insurance, the spare tire and securely fastening down the duffel bags. What kind of priorities are those, am I right? Once satisfied, I had enough apples, dried fruit, and biltong to go with the waffles, soft pretzels, cheese, crackers, and several gallons of water, and celebratory stock of gin, tonic and limes- off we went, headed south through Namibia. The kids were giddy with 6am excitement, unable to go back to sleep- ignorant of the long hours ahead. I desperately wanted to nod off, but as the first leg co-pilot, I knew my allegiances should remain awake with Mark. For our first burst of excitement, we drove past the Tropic of Capricorn, completing a lifelong dream photoshoot at the southernmost latitude point that receives sunlight directly overhead. 

The best part of driving in southern Namibia is that the landscape is consistently unique. Not having been particularly far north, east, or west I can't speak to them yet. But the south is definitely cool and unpredictable. One minute we would drive past rolling mountains,  another past rocky steppe, or farm land, and another through canyons. Sometimes all four seemed to happen at once and although Namibia is drought ridden, there's still a mess Pantone colors swathing the landscape. It's pretty great.  The only thing that is less great, is the endless, straight road (though the B1 highway is well paved and marked) which will make any driver sleepy.  

A few hours later we approached our next pit stop of Keetmanshoop, and decided on a detour to the Quiver Tree Forest/Rest Camp. Owned by a German family with what seemed like 43 sheep dogs, this private property contains an impressive spread of quiver trees which are part of the aloe family. The owner estimated that some of these trees are over 300 years old. It's impressive they don't whither in the hot sun, which at our time of arrival, reached 40C (104F). Beet faced and only "slightly" sweating, we explored the rocky and hilly terrain chasing lizards. After chugging the once cold turned tepid bubble water, we visited the Giant's Playground: a place filled with very old, very big rock piles. Essentially, they are 160-180 million year old igneous rocks spread over 180,000 square kilometers. Essentially, it's pretty cool. And hot at the same time.

I love how Google has its mind made up with the most efficient way to arrive, but then promptly changes to divert via dirt roads. Yet, I still believed as we bid goodbye to the B1. Perhaps it saved 3-5 minutes, perhaps not. What the new route did do was take us to through suspiciously green, and soldier straight vineyards and palm tree farms. It was a pleasant surprise, even if we were only 90% certain of the correct way. Finally, with an eminent arrival to the Gondwana Canyon Village, we enjoyed spartan yet massive rock columns, and buttes, along with a sneak preview of the Fish River Canyon. Everything mind you, was dotted with oryx, gembock, and ostriches.  Once we checked in and pretended not to notice it was 42C, we had no choice but to cool off by swimming and taking a sunset hike before eating dinner under the stars.  Dinners here start and end late. So much that, the kids wanted to skip dessert, falling into bed at 9:30, with us not far behind at 9:31. We all had enough bursts of excitement for the day.

23°26′13.5″

Quiver tree forest! 
Photo credit: Deets.
Mistakingly taking a selfie with a quiver tree photobomb.
Hiking around the Canyon Village.

View from the shade in which I was hiding.

View from the porch of our "chalet."

View of the village from above.

Monday, December 12, 2016

Ostriches and Crocs in All Their Glory. Maybe.

Luckily my kids don't give me the wary eyeball when I announce we are taking an adventure trip in the car. Yet. To kick off holiday break, I picked out a rest camp an hour north of Windhoek that boasts keeping tame, hand fed ostriches and crocodiles. Seemed like a nice combination. We found the place easily and signed up for the "tour" led by a 26 year old employee who loves all things ostriches: their stupidity, their greediness, their color changing beaks during mating season.  After spewing out a few facts, she eagerly told us how a man snuck into their camp last year to steal a backpacks' worth of ostrich eggs and was killed by blunt force trauma. Cause of death: trampling by a 2 toed ostrich. Yes, she told this to Deets and Margo who were then offered to hand feed them. Needless to say, no one took her up on the offer. Those birds are legitimately crazy-mean birds! If they could flare their nostrils and thump their chests, they would. 

Continuing on with the tour, we met Rita the Warthog, who lived in the tour guide's house for several years and slept under her bed. She gave her up when Rita got too fat. We met a group of tortoises, one female and approximately 12 males all hell bent on mounting her shell. Skipping over to seek out Lucy the crocodile, we saw only a green pool of water from behind the cement fence- which, the guide insisted my kids should sit upon. She continued with her fascinating animal facts telling us how Lucy sometimes jumps as high as 2 meters out of the water. The guide said she likes to jump and catch a group of weaver birds who've set up a ton of nests on an overhanging tree. She tried to coax out the crocodile by whapping the surface with a long stick, but only succeeded in making Lucy sink deeper into the pond. Can't say I blame her. 

After a few more random facts about love birds, weavers, even the camp's resident dog, she tried to bid us adieu. However, the kiddos kept asking her about the giraffes who were shacked up with the ostriches. With only a passing glance, she shrugged saying nothing except "I dunno, they're just giraffes." Totally caught off guard, I could only laugh.  After all, we followed her for 20 minutes as she preened and pontificated about the other animals. I guess giraffes aren't for everyone.   

Having only spent about thirty minutes there in total, I felt we should drive through the nearest town of Okahandja and scope out the local craft market. There's no stop lights in the town, but it's full of activity as it is the water supply HQ for Windhoek, has a chic and modern military center, plus a hefty makeshift craft center that sells anything from wooden hippos, to jewelry, to kitchen stuff. We enjoyed a lively and accusatory encounter with the sales folks who "jokingly" called me mean mommy because I wouldn't buy the kids anything special. Had I been in the mood to haggle, I might have walked away with an 8 foot tall giraffe. Instead I spent my money on gas, thinking that might be slightly more important. 

Just a giraffe.

His ugly mug, all red and hyped up for mating.

Rita, the fatty.

Lady T finally getting a break to herself.

Waterbuck, another animal the guide cared not talk about.
They have distinct targets on their asses.