Sarajevo: The Phoenix

Cozy and romantic. And SMOKE FREE!

When Mark wasn't literally running the consular section at the embassy in Sarajevo, he spent time de-stressing with his newly made friend Armin at his bar called The Phoenix. The Phoenix got its name after the house burned 3 times yet it rose again from the ashes. This was the very place that Mark took over while he ran to pick up his children.

4 KM Nektar draft, about 2.75 USD

Built in the basement of a historic house fronted by a carpet of headstones on the western hills of Sarajevo, it was a popular bar where people would gather to play their guitars and sing songs.

People would pass around song books and microphones taking turns to belt out Irish lyrics, Dylan poetry, or rock ballads. Usually four or five guitar players and a percussionist would hook up the amps and Armin would join in with his banjo.

Yay Armin!

Before Armin became a family man, he once spent a summer traveling knocking about the U.S. During his visa application the consular officer asked why he wanted to go to the States.  He replied, "I want to meet hillbillies!" So he did. That summer, he traveled all over the south and eastern side of the States playing his banjo in blue grass festivals, local bars, even on the streets. He loved every minute of it, especially meeting the small town locals who'd all but take him into their family.

He is an incredibly talented string player, and an equally talented host and story teller. I could see why Mark enjoyed his company so much. 

So enraptured I didn't notice a thing...

My 1,556.94 RON Blog Post

Breaking out into random dance.

Lest I commit a heinous crime while cooped up in our apartment in Sarajevo, I made it a personal mission to get the kids out for fresh air. Ignoring the rain, I wheeled my kids around the hidden streets of Old Town in search of an indoor play area that promised energy burning fun. What should have taken 20 minutes I found in a mere 75 only to find they didn't open for several more hours. Try explaining that to a toddler who was continuously coaxed with half hearted promises of  "just a little bit longer." 

Defeated for the late morning, I chucked the kids back to the apartment in the rain for a hopeful nap time before trying again in the afternoon. While they slept I scoured parenting blogs for other potential areas and found one a few miles away so when they woke up, I gave them no time to think as I shoved the three of us into a cab. Seemingly, the cabbie understood my request: "Interex Coco Loco, dopasti se (please)," and off we went. 

Dropping us off in a maze of warehouses and modular strip malls, I took a a guess at where this Coco Loco place might be. I can tell you it wasn't in the first two buildings we looked in and I could see Deets getting increasingly frustrated, feeling duped about empty promises of playground fun. Finally, someone understood what I was asking for and directed me two warehouses down, four doors to the right. Drenched but relieved, I opened the door, paid my 3.50 KM (about 2.50 US) and didn't see Deets for about three hours.  

With Margo happily watching the madness of children running around, I took the opportunity to upload some pictures to the blog. Feeling successful at my multitasking during "Operation-Time-Waste" and waiting for Mark to get off work, I began to write on my teeny iPhone screen when I got a phone call from Vodafone. 

When you turn on 3G-roaming when out of country, extra charges occur to use email/SMS/Internet services. Duh, you say. Well I would agree. It doesn't take a genius to realize this and I knew I'd be spending extra money but I didn't really think it would be too much.

But THIS genius here didn't read the fine print about data-roaming in Bosnia Herzegovina: if you upload data in this country you get charged 9.92 EURO/MB and so in a matter of minutes I managed to spend 1,556.94 RON for uploading pictures. That's 350.00 EURO or 478.00 USD. Vodafone was giving me a courtesy call to give me a heads up.

**Face Blanch**

 I looked back at my automatic  "Welcome to Bosnia" SMS from Vodafone. Indeed, the fees were right on the screen. Smooth move, Ex Lax: an expensive lesson to learn, and I learned it good.  As a curiosity, I went through my old texts to compare prices: Austria and Great Britain charge 0.558 EUR/MB. Spain, Hungary, Greece and Bulgaria charge 0.868 EUR/MB. I'd say better luck next time, but I doubt there will be one. And now, the prized (and random) pictures for my most expensive post ever...

Deets stuff his face with cevapi, a minced sausage.
Note Mark's approval.

Margo diving in too. You'd have thought
I never fed the kids all day.

Mark at his favorite bar in Sarajevo
ordering a Nektar of the gods.