Wednesday, September 2, 2026

The Astana Bike Commute

mercurial fog off the Ishim

Every year from March to October, Mark and I commute to work on bike. Most of our ride is on a path that hugs the edge of the Ishim River and we only have to pass through three lighted intersections. Most of our colleagues think riding a bike in KZ is dangerous and 100% mad thing to do. The highes climb of our 5.8 mile ride is 87 feet to get up and across the M-3 bridge. Flat ride, yes. But, Astana almost always has a headwind so we do get plenty of resistance training no matter what the season.

Spring riding brings an explosion of greenery, weed growth, and cottonwood puff. Plants around grow hard and fast here, making the lawn crew hustle double time on their tiny mowers. Summer brings early morning fishing thanks to the 4am sunrises, power walkers, and oblivious dog walkers with pets either totally off leash or stretched across the trail. Autumn arrived this week with sudden, cool temperatures that required me to unearth my nylon balaclava and thick neoprene bike leggings. I legit look like a diaper wearing cat burglar who baked in the sun all day. I kinda stay warm but not really, because the ride doesn’t allow enough time to build up a of heat. Every ride ends with ghost white feet and hands, blotchy cold weather rashes, and super dry skin.

This morning, the river temperature was higher than the air temp leaving the Ishim foggy and almost romantic (if it weren’t 6:45am). The grass was frosty and still, and the trees looked a lot skinnier than usual. Like most oldies, it makes me wonder if this early September weather change will mean early snow or extra snow this winter? Will we get to enjoy the fall color changes? Autumn in Astana always goes in a flash, but I hope I can manage at least two more months of irking my petty blue bike before the ice and snow show up to ruin my rides. I really do love winter here - it’s the best part of living in Kazakhstan, IMO.

summer time fishing squat

fancier north side of the river
we usually ride on the unfancy side as Schlinks do

Atyrau "Sturgeon" Bridge

Central Park Clock reminding me how late I am 

Qaraötkel Bridge and the St. Regis 
I prefer to call it the Argyle Bridge

Satan's asshole

presidential tractor beam