Closing Out Scotland

I don't want to downplay the sheer awesomeness of Isle of Skye. After all, people including myself flock there in droves every year to see the unique landscapes and indulge in their history. So much so, that sustaining the demand has become a problem for locals. While the roads are well kept, there's not always two lanes and cars passing opposite need to alternate the right of way. The volume of vehicles overwhelm most parking lots, leaving determined visitors to park precariously (and carelessly) on the road side. The bottlenecking and the need for patience is impressive, especially when tourists hop off ferries and onto giant tour buses. Large influxes of people inevitably means more congestion; more trash; more makeshift roadside camping because cottages and inns are fully booked for months ahead of time. Mark and I had to amend our travel plans specifically for this reason. We all want to see everything, and we all want to see it RIGHT now! Yes?

Anyway, Isle of Skye is super cool, but the Highlands south of that region are amazing too. Even though the area is seemingly much of the same land (green, mountainy, and stuffed with lakes), the Highlands are undeniably different. It's hard to describe. The expansive textures of the Highlands is unparalleled to anything I have seen before, where the green is nearly blinding. The ancient, rounded mountain tops have a secret they won't tell, and the lakes disappear underneath a sea soft moss and teeny delicate flowers. The sky gets bigger and we get smaller. I desperately wished we had time to stay at least one night in the vicinity of Trossachs National Park. There was a gentleman in full on Scottish uniform, playing his bagpipe on the side of the road with his back to the Beinn Ime, the highest peak in Scotland at 1,011m/3,326ft. Everyone and their mom, including burly motorcyclists were pulled over to take a snapshot of this idyllic scene. I bet that musician makes a killing.  

Since the Harry Potter Studio was out of reach, we did the next best thing and stopped in Glencoe, where Hagrid's Hut once stood. There's no sign and no notice showing you where the hut was perched during filming, about 100 yards up from the road, but with a seasoned HP eye, the location is easily spotted. Mark had a hell of a time explaining to Deets and Margo that we wouldn't actually see the hut, nor Hagrid (God, they were hopeful), and had to talk them up from massive disappointment when they realized we were staring literally at a hill now overgrown with ferns. We made up for it by letting them throw rocks into a creek, which happens to be one of my favorite downtime activities.

Onward we went, and before we realized it, them mountains had petered out, leaving way to serene farmland and more cozy towns, streets lined with colorful hanging flower baskets and Scottish pride. The drive ended before I wanted it to and left me wanting more, but I suppose that's the sign of a good trip. We checked back into a hotel near the airport and settled ourselves for a quick overnight before flying to Oslo for the next leg of "rest & relaxation." 

Hagrid's Hut

Credit: Mark

No regrets.

Isle of Skye

The Edinburgh Airport car rental place is a hilarious thing. Even with use of those luggage carts that steer all weird, it's easy enough to walk from the terminal and directly to your chosen rental company. However, if you are coming from the city via taxi, it's another story. No taxis are allowed into the lot, which meant that the kids, grandma, and I got to sit by the side of the road with ten thousand pieces of luggage strewn about while the dudes dealt with the paperwork. No worries, it gave our carsick boy plenty of time to barf in the grass and take a nap, and Margo to practice her jumping jacks and harassing custard faced brother. From here, we would drive to the vastness of the Isle of Skye: a legendary archipelago stuffed with peninsulas, lochs, and towering mountains. Plus a bunch of green stuff like grass and moss.

Scottish roads are delightful, as are the adorable towns along the way. We drove north and enjoyed watching the flats turn into rolling hills and into mountains. Thick forests surrounded both sides of the winding road, sheltering village off shoots from highway noise. We made a pitstop in Dunkeld, once a choice getaway location for Beatrix Potter back in the day. She enjoyed this place for good reason: with everything in Scotland, if it's not beautiful, it's cute and historic with well made stone bridges that cross over its seemingly endless supply of rivers and lochs. Plus it was Dunkeld where tales of Peter Rabbit took form. It's a cute story: Potter, a frequent letter writer to sick children, ran out of things to say to a particular boy and segued into a tale involving four rabbits.

Eventually we drove into Inverness and craned our necks searching for the Lochness Monster before stopping by Black Isle Brewery for thirst management. After two other stops that involved mediocre cafeteria food, and a flat tire repair, we arrived to Dornie, population 360: the most adorable town in existence. It contained the following: two bars, one grocery store, one cafe, and one 13th century castle. Mark had rented a three bedroom cottage that was filled to the brim with floral design. Carpets, walls, curtains, beds, and pillows were adorned with varying flower prints. Our AirBnB host was a sprightly woman dressed in a bright blue raincoat, sensible trousers, and thick wool stockings (please no shoes inside, mind you!) who showed me how to turn on the television, washing machine, and thermostat. All of it was so endearing and cozy I never wanted to leave. 

From here, our ventures commenced with days filled with hiking, boating, driiiiiiiving, and drinking beer. I tried a mess of whisky and faked my way through it. I can appreciate the thought, effort, and history behind it, but man... while I loved having a warm belly, I did not love the raging heartburn. 

We gawked at cyclists, campers, and backpackers slowly making their way in the sodden rain (one had to assume it would and could rain at any moment- and it did). As it was high-season, there were many travelers in the area. Some literally camping on the side of the road and we watched more than one tent bail out pooling water, which I imagine circulated right into the ground and back side their tents. 

Among other things we spotted many waterfalls that changed in size on a regular basis from the rain. Trickles transformed into giant cascades in a matter of moments, rushing down hill with impressive force. We visited fairy pools on a rare dry moment, which are a magical series of trailing waterfalls that eddy off into crystal clear pools. Mark and I drove by historic castles, shuddering at the thought of life 500 years ago. We passed by 1000's merino sheep, some of which are actually feral, according to the hungover zodiak boat guide, and peered at the sea lions blubbed out on rocky beaches. But the big excitement for me was seeing the famously hairy Highland cows. So exciting apparently, that I forgot to take a picture of one. 

My dude sitting pretty in Dornie.

So many layers of flowers.

I love a good fake fire,
but  if you wonder what will happen
if you try to dry a shirt on one... just don't.
It wasn't me nor my husband- for the win.

The unbelievable manicured backyard of our cottage.
There's potatoes growing in here somewhere.

Eilean Donan Castle built sometime in the 1200s.
It's by far the MOST photographed castle in Scotland.

I hid here while the rest of the family followed the masses
 inside to marvel the crown jewels or something.

And now a crappy castle: Duntulm, circa 14-15th centuries.
 I'm not sure where the sky went in this photo.

 The suits! They do nothing! Except Deets'.
He stayed bone dry and had the most fun.
Castle Maol in the background. 500+ years old, maybe?

Bog cotton. Very dreamy.

My overly brave girl who said "to hell with being dry."

Water water everywhere.

Highland leaders of the pack.

Mark capturing the fairy pools.

One of the many fairy pools.
Credit: Mark

Kilt Rock Waterfall. While those are rocks (not ice)
in the ocean, it sure as heck felt like it was that cold.

Rain and Sun in Edinburgh

Forget Brittanica estate rooms and opulent crystal place settings. Forget crown jewels and royal tapestries. Instead, give me prisoner's quarters, blood letting dishes, decrepit stone churches, and graphic preservations of the human condition. Also, give me the great outdoors- because there's no better way to get to know a country's heart and soul. In Edinburgh, I got to do all these things, including high-brow gawking of things I would never have nor desire. 

Luck was on our side as we hopped on buses and traipsed along the cobblestone: it rained only about half the time. On the days that weren't dripping in grey, we were outside doing things like hiking Arthur's Table, the Royal Botanic Gardens, Princes Street Gardens,  and letting our feral children do what they do best. Otherwise, between downpours we scrambled amongst thickly fortified castles, ancient churches, and museums, ducking into pubs for gin or whisky to warm our tummies. 

Perhaps obviously, my big highlight was visiting the Surgeon's Hall Museum. My eyes grew wide with nostalgia as I explained trephination or talked about the formaldehyde filled jugs of body parts to my kids. To a decent extent, they played along, surmising theories for how people died in the first place. I told them they died because they didn't brush their teeth nor wash their hands enough. They only half believed me, but I think they took extra care of themselves thereafter. At least for a few days.

Mark's favorite activity for ALL places he visits, is walking. He likes to walk with no formulated itineraries and especially without maps. He has this bizarre internal compass that usually keeps us on the right track. I don't know how he does it. Also on this occasion, Mark had an opportunity to catch up with a couple of Scottish friends he made 16, 17 years ago. He met one in Romania, a fellow from Perth who worked for a nonprofit. Another was a Glaswegian teacher in Bratislava, and each friend picked up as if no time had ever passed. It was just... nice and dreamy. I loved getting a sneak peek of Mark's past life while they regaled tales of the day over pints of beer. It's like getting to know a different version of the person I love best.

As for the kids, they loved going to Dynamic Earth, an interactive science museum that left us all depressed about dying in a well-predicted, future volcanic explosion straight out of Yellowstone National Park. Really, the museum was quite entertaining and a great respite to dry off from the insipid drizzle. Margo and Deets played. And played. And conquered any playground (and canons) we came upon. Both of them ate dirt and tore clothes as they tripped and rolled down parts of Arthur's Seat. It was very green and they were very happy.

Aside from a stingy and dramatic AirBnB host, who failed to give us but a single sponge to clean the 3 bedroom apartment that slept 6, we quite enjoyed Edinburgh. Believe me, we left that apartment waaaaaaay cleaner than when we arrived, but there was still immature squabbling from her end about towel usage. She wanted to charge us 40 pounds to replace a single towel that wasn't left white enough in our care. Thank goodness the AirBnB dispute team manages the crazies well. Next up: Isle of Skye.

Also for anyone considering visiting Edinburgh, I loved this website: http://edinburgh.org/101/

We stayed in Leith, a port-centric neighborhood north of downtown.

Leith, Edinburgh.

Heart of Midlothian, a mosaic marking the site of an old tolbooth
 where executions used to take place. It was demolished in 1817.
People spit freely and often on it.

Cruising the Royal Mile

St. Giles Cathedral

View from western end of Princes Street Garden.

View from Arthur's Seat,
an ancient volcano

St. Anthony's Chapel
From the 11-freaking-00!

Holyrood Abbyy, 1128
That's ooooooooold.

I know you saw this on IG, but it was so awesome.
She reminds me of an old PE teacher.

Okay, okay. This was pretty cool. But I have thing about rope pictures.