Painted Monasteries

Memories of untamed roads, travel sweat, and carsickness were literally forgotten when I stepped through the doors of our first painted monastery. Situated a mere 445km from Bucharest (or about 510km if you drive Schlink-style), the painted monasteries located in Bucovina are must-see destinations. Not only because they are as old as the invention of lager beer and on UNESCO's World Heritage bucket list, but because they are incredible works of art! Thanks to Stefan cel Mare, aka Stephen the Great, aka Steve the Ottoman Gangbuster, this dude with a mustache and crown successfully resisted many war wagers between 1457-1504 and built churches and monasteries (namely Voronet) as a symbol of gratitude and enduring faith to the Romanian Orthodox Church.

While some of the artwork suffered abuses such as sun exposure and vandalism, most of the murals have retained their vibrancy thanks to the dedicated nuns who run the monasteries. 

Nice to know vandalism isn't a new fad...

One nun in particular found Deets particularly amusing and gave him chocolates before returning to work, selling tickets to mouth gapers like ourselves. Other nuns were tending to the gardens, some were giving tours (impressively changing from German to Romanian without a hitch), and others were managing their books. It was pretty cool. 

Candeeeeee!

Of the nine monasteries, we made it to three: Voronest, Moldavita, and Suceavita, each with unique identifiers and stories to tell. All the Schlinks were thrilled to have made this trip. Even Deets.

Voronet Monastery 1488

"The Last Judgement" painted in widescreen
 on the backside of Voronet. To hell, or not to hell?

Moldavita Monastery 1532

"The Siege of Constantinople" depicted on the wall of
Moldavita, compliments of Toma the Suceavan.
Serious border protection.

Sucevita Monastery 1584

"The Ladder of Virtue" a trial of sinners doomed
for hell or heaven. Successful ascension in 30 easy steps.

Inn On Balaban: Perfect if You Wanna Get Away

The in-law side of my family got to kick off their visit to Romania by driving headfirst into the hairpin glories of Transylvanian highway. I was nervous about inducing early onset car sickness on my mother in-law, but I found my peace in the green forests and valleys along the way. Escorting them to Bran Castle, they were delighted to explore its expansive stone structure above the souvenir and cheese heavy village. 

Afterwards, we made our way up a rutted dirt road a few more miles for an overnight stay at the Inn on Balaban. While I'd love to take credit for discovering this awesome hidden treasure, I can't. One of Mark's kick-ass coworkers spoke highly of the Inn and organized our stay. Greeted with an abundance of tuica, we knew this place would probably, also kick ass. It did.

During various times, we ate our weight in grilled lamb, chicken, and pig, washing it all down with fresh veggies, bread, and wine. The food comas were slept off in cozy rooms with real linen and down comforters, leaving plenty free time to read, take pictures, stare serenely, or sleep some more...

Even the drive home was soul warming. We opted to head towards Pitesti (Bucharest via HWY74 instead of DN1 so to speak) and we were not disappointed with what we saw. One caveat: the roads were far more snaky (and loooonger) and thus far more barf potential. My mother in-law passed with flying colors, Deets? Not so much.

Ripley Chonicle #4: Constanta Danza!

The month of May is last minute prep time for the kind folks in Constanta and Mamaia to gear up for bikini heavy, sunscreen lathering, party blasting beach goers for the summer season. I felt it necessary to bring my folks there to check off the Black Sea on the must-see seas list. 

Hellooooo? Anyone?

 Sadly, it was pretty much deserted with exception to a lovely couple who were awkwardly laying on a chunk of concrete, making out and batting away the sand flies to the sound of the squawking seagulls.  I'd hoped for a few more attendees, but at least it was quiet and "oceany". Beach walking was a new milestone for Deets, but he was determined and even enthusiastic to explore (eat) the millions of shells that blended in what passed for sand. 

Hm, I'm good. No need to go ANY further. Thanks.

That is, until we got to the water's edge. As if Jaws was lurking beyond the tiny waves, he made it clear we were not to venture further out than a few inches. Poor kid. I imagine had there been regular beach goers present to frolic like Baywatch in the sea, he would have been more adventurous. I know I would.

Once a lifeguard, always a lifeguard.

Ripley Chronicle #3: Brasov 'n Co.

Feeling the love of a cool summer breeze, Brasov was greeted with open arms. I was overjoyed to see Mark join us for the last leg of our haul. He took the train from Bucharest and conveniently met us at Council Square where our beautiful hotel was located. As if we hadn't already been eating and drinking to our heart's content, we stuffed our gullets at a few spectacular restaurants worth mentioning: Keller's Steakhouse, Bella Muzica, Naturellement. Regrettably, on date nite with Mark, the "Rough Guide" led us astray with one particular restaurant, Sirul Vamii. Their food just made me sad. 

Between feeding times we were awed by formidable, fortified churches and castles in nearby towns, all very much worth the small effort it took to get there. Mobile phone pics just don't do them justice...

Prejmer built 1212. Forty ft high, 10-15 ft thick.

Loopholes. They weren't messing around.

Inside the walls... cozy 8'x10'
rooms for livin large.

There was also the Harman fortified church built in the 13th century with its original frescoes on display, though it was being renovated.  Next up? The iconic Bran Castle, built between 1377-1382. Queen Marie shacked up here 1920-1947, a beloved leader and advocate for Romania's citizens during the Balkan war.

Deets sized windows.

Perfect place for day dreaming. Or spying. 

Ripley Chronicle #2: Medias/Sighisoara

My father desperately needed some trouser support, and to his utter delight he found a (ladies!) belt in a German speaking second hand store within the citadel walls of Medias, Romania. Let's say it together: may-di-ash.

Haben sie diesen gürtel in einem schwarzen?

What's more gross than
used stuffed animals?

I forgot my plumb line at home.
Sorry man.

This cute town is halfway between Sibiu and Sighisoara, and is more known for the Evangelical Church of St. Margaret and it's tilted bell tower rather than their plethora of rummage sales and second hand stores. Sometime during 1467, Vlad the Impaler was imprisoned within the Tailors' Tower; he probably forgot to pay a parking ticket or something... This summer Medias will be hosting a chess tournament too! Check. Mate.

Of course, our route continued to Sighisoara for an immersion in vampire lore and spectacular views from the Clock Tower. Aside from the persistent Scouser-clad gypsy begging for money, we had a great time hefting Deets up the scholarly stairs and around the cobblestone paths of the upper town.

romaniatourism.com

Cobble cobble cobble!

Beijing is 7007 km straight ahead.

London? Just over the hill and 1872 km.