The Registan of Samarkand was once the public square where citizens gathered to hear officials make announcements and sometimes conduct executions. It is surrounded by three madrasas that were THE place to study not just Islam, but also poetry, astronomy, science, art, and philosophy from the world's great teachers back in the day. Though the schools have long since closed, the tiny doors inside each madrasa house souvenir shops and old women who sweep the stone floors clean. The madrasas are spectacularly tall, old, and exquisitely tiled and Mark was giddy as he wandered the empty squares, taking photos from every angle he could manage. He posted far superior photos than mine on his Schlink Shots blog: https://schlinkshots.photo.blog/2020/11/29/samarkand-and-around-thanksgiving-2020-393917-6n-665832-3e-ish/
There's more to Samarkand than the gorgeous Registan. We visited the somber Guri-Emir Mausoleum which seems to breathe life despite being a sacred burial spot. The tomb of Saint Daniel is an unusually long extra tomb, built to accommodate his magic leg that grows a bit longer every year. We visited President Karimov's tomb and his passed family members, the Ulugbek Observatory, and the ancient site of Afrasiyab - the original Samarkand that flourished before the Mongol Empire. Unfortunately the museum we tried to visit was closed but we did get to meet the Museum Director who showed us a short video that told the story of three painted partially preserved murals that were discovered on walls thousands of years ago.
Seeing it all in one day isn't an unreasonable ask, but it was only accomplished because we had two amenable kids who enjoy (or at least tolerate) our love of walking. I'd guess that normal people do it in two days. 25,000 steps and 8 hours later, we returned to the b&b too exhausted for dinner settling on wine, canned pineapple, smoked cheese, and cup-o-ramen, and a few episodes of Brooklyn 99 to polish off the day.
Sher-Dor Madrasa on the Registan
Courtyard of Ulugbek Madrasa
Nightly 6pm light show
Steps of Guri-Emir Mausoleum
Women must cover their heads before entering
Guri-Emir Mausoleum and adjacent cemetery
Guri-Emir Mausoleum
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