Bukhara: a very nice place

After spending some time in Bukhara and wandering through its impressive collection of madrasas, mosques, and mausoleums, I understand the paramountcy of religious excursions. Through the history and detail of great beings who lived, and through the tiles and towers designed to inspire devotion, the feeling of being surrounded by a greater goodness is abundant in Bukhara. 

Many times, we watched dozens of men of all ages, answer calls to prayer with beads in hand and shoes lined up along the carpet edges. Elders sat in chairs while others remained on their knees. They prayed among ancient, yet gloriously tiled buildings, among foreign and local tourists, kids flying kites or driving Power Wheels, and among jovial vendors. It was special and important, but also seemingly no big deal. 

Everyone we met in Bukhara was friendly and eager to chat, though there was one waitstaff who had an uncanny resemblance in both looks and mannerisms to Orin from Parks and Rec. He was morose and stared a lot, offering few words other than "no." Overall, Bukhara's friendliness was the biggest thing we noticed. Grannies handed out candies to the kids when they left a neighborhood wedding celebration. Kids begged to have their pictures taken while practicing their English or Russian. Bathroom attendants made sure there was plenty of toilet paper on hand.  Advice on things to see and do was plenty, so every day in Bukhara felt like a very good one.

Based on our experience, a stay at Komil Boutique Bed & Breakfast is our own piece of advice. Stop by the Studio of Applied Arts on Arabon St. (not 100 yards from Komil B&B) to meet artists and their work. The Meat House, owned by a man who trained at Hilton Head in South Carolina, promises high quality dishes and basically non-existent corking fee. We wished we had bought more tools from the blacksmith located a few steps north from the Tim Abdulla Khan Trading Dome on Khakikat Street. His shop was closed on the last day we were there, so we had to settle on the Museum of Metal Chasing's "gift shop" instead. 

Poi Kalon Mosque

Bolo Hauz Mosque

Poi Kalon Mosque southern view from the neighborhood

Poi Kalon Minaret and Mosque in background

Beauty salon space in vacant madrasa  

Space and cold

Mirzo Ulugbek Madrasa

Bolo Hauz Mosque Prayer Schedule

Bolo Hauz Mosque wood and tile work

Nodir Devon Begi Madrasasi

"The idiot." I can't tell what is more classy: 

that the donkey's butthole was as shiny brassy-gold as the saddle 

where 1,000s of tourists have sat upon, or that I noticed it.

 

Karnay horns at a wedding