Friday, April 12, 2013

Road trip to Sofia

Loading up the car with ample amounts of clothing, food and toys, along with a stroller, pack n play, and a smattering of electronics, I found it hilarious yet comforting to over prepare for the official Schlink Family Road Trip #1. Mark found it embarrassing but said nothing, knowing how I needed to anticipate whether Margo would need her goose down snow suit AND fleece suit in order to feel centered. Believe me, I had my reasons.

We cheered victory as we crossed into Bulgaria, stopping only once in the 90 minutes it took to get to the border. Of course from there Sofia, "only" four short hours away quickly became a six hour trek as we attempted to tame the lion that is Margo. Aside from her frequent protests of forced five point harnessing, boredom and hunger, the drive though long, was rather merciful. With beautiful changing landscape, decent roads, and lack of Romanian drivers, I think we handled our car load quite well. It didn't hurt knowing we'd arrive to our friends' home with promises of wine and beer. 

I think our friends were impressed by our ability to make ourselves at home so quickly. In less than ten minutes we feng shui-ed the apartment with exploding duffel bags of clothes, books and toys as well as children littering the floor. All in good stride they took us to a popular Bulgarian restaurant for a feast of meat, cheese,  rakiya (brandy) and wine. If pork is the national vegetable of Romania, then sheep must be Bulgaria's. Gut stuffing delicious. 

Literally rolling out of bed the next morning, our friends saw to it that we sampled what I think is Bulgaria's best kept secret: their yogurt. Take it via cow, buffalo or goat, I had a love affair and it saddens me know people could be deprived of such decadence. I polished off my breakfast as well as Deets' much to the eye roll of my husband who thinks any breakfast not in pastry form is unacceptable.

Due to intense and reportedly rare rainfall, Mark opted to keep the kids at home while I got the grand tour de Sofia ala Rachel, who is easily fifteen times smarter than me. And a history buff too. It was awesome, though I freely admit I remember very little. That probably explains why she's so smart.
A nice shiny building.
Bulgarian bathhouse.
Powering through the rain.
Despite the chill of heavy wet denim, threatening to slide down my legs, we hit churches, historic buildings, markets, and even the hot spring fountains. Braving the downpour, locals were busily filling their giant containers to collect the healing and medicinal spring water. Holding my chilled hands under the warm water, I resisted the fantasy of hopping into the fountain altogether; I doubt I could slip my clothes back on anyway, never mind if was socially or hygienically appropriate to swim in a drinking fountain. 

For a kidney cleanse use fountains #2-4. For liver detox, #5-7.

All I can tell you is that it's a church.
Back home thawing out, the children woke from their naps and we relaxed among great conversation, homemade mac n cheese and of course more wine and beer. On this evening I learned several things about Bulgaria: 1. Finding roadside trash is rare, thanks to mobsters who (successfully) run waste management. 2. Buildings may or may not include right angles or level ceilings, but there's cheap labor thanks to mobsters who run construction projects. 3. Historical buildings may burn down randomly creating opportunity for more property acquisition, thanks to mobsters who run the real estate market. 

Just like that, the weekend flew by probably because mobsters run that too. It was time to pack-out and head south for Thessaloniki, Greece.  I'd like to thank our dear friends Rachel and Andy for showing us unrelenting hospitality and a great time. I can't wait for our paths to cross again!


2 comments:

  1. First pretty building is the National Theater. The building known as "pretty church" is the Patriarchal church of St. Alexander Nevski-the largest Orthodox Church in the Balkan peninsula-in your face Greece, Romania, Macedonia and Serbia!
    And the yogurt is that good because the bacillus Bulgaricus, that makes all yogurts originated in Bulgaria and even though it lives in other countries now, it really thrives the most in BG. I wish we had the time to go together, so you can see Sofia as a Bulgarian.

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    1. Thank you Marina! That was what they said, but I was so stinkin' excited to write about the sights that I didn't take the time to research. I'm ashamed I didn't. What I really wanted to get across was how tour books say all the right things about visiting Bulgaria, but they fail to mention with urgency about how friggin awesome the place is. I can't wait to go back. It's a visual/cultural/geographical overload of primetime enjoyment. More people need to come visit.

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