Cais do Sertao Museum

Opened April 2014, close to Marco Zero

Imagine a museum that highlights austere living in the backwoods: sunken cracked earth, thorny shrubs, cactus, blistering sun; where the land aches from cattle ranches, cotton farming and chronic drought and the citizens cultivate images of cowboys, leather makers, and lovers of forro music. Sound a little underwhelming? Surprisingly, quite the opposite. The museum, named Cais do Sertão, translates to "Edge of the Backwoods" is one of Recife's proud achievements. Interactive, modern and incredibly artistic, the museum does a fabulous job showing the coastal inhabitants the powerful and beautiful lure of the Brazilian northeast interior.

After paying the entry fee I was sternly lectured about the museum's strict anti-photography rule while they locked up my bag. Directly, the guide shepherded me into a floor-to-ceiling semi-circle theater for a 6 minute video showcasing daily life of the sertão's inhabitants. I felt ensconced in heat, and in the beauty of daily ritual. I felt a little boredom as the day stretched into night perfectly illustrating the slower pace of life. 

Thirst
http://sgrpublicidade.blogspot.com.br/

Beyond the video was the museum space with an running stream full of swimming fish dividing the floor. One side was heavy with historical music movements, particularly Baião, a style that later grew into forró and coco music. This music is a mix of country, polka, mariachi and blues- heavy on the accordion with catchy syncopated rhythms. It highlights homesickness, passion, or jealousy. Instruments, costumes, photos and plenty of listening stations- interestingly ones that played when a listener placed their elbows into some grooves on the display and covering the ears with their hands. 

Luiz Gonzaga, a cactus and a sunset
http://blogs.diariodonordeste.com.br/

The other side contained quite literally a mashup of interactive displays: video art on the statement of guns and violence; quiz games on the harrowing drought problem; touch screens with art; tools and personal belongings. At the far end was a seemingly random ice cave for visitors to walk through, giving the sensation of being watched from all angles. 

Up the stairs to the loft, I wandered through the Baião library and stared at records made by Luiz Gonzaga. The museum attendant in this section told me many students access their book collection for research on Baião music. Admittedly, the collection contained only about 50 books, but they were placed in a comfortable space with couches, conducive to group work and discussion. I cruised by a collection of instruments along with a music teacher ready and waiting with drums, guitars, accordions, cymbals. Perhaps the most interesting exhibit was the recording rooms perfect for karaoke. Forró karaoke- very adorable if not a little weird for those unfamiliar with it.

www.portodorecife.pe.gov.br

There's plenty to read for those who want it, plenty to listen, plenty to watch, plenty to play. The staff were all young, hip and fresh- eager to talk. The value of respecting and remembering this culture was clearly at the top of the list, and everyone at the museum did a great job showing it. I'd say of all the 54 museums Recife has on offer, Cais do Sertão is easily my favorite.