Schlink Attack: Gravata and Hotel Fazenda

Monday, August 31, 2015

Gravata and Hotel Fazenda

The photo we wanted to take of Serra das Russas but didn't get a chance.

If there's ever a need to escape the relentless sound of crashing ocean waves, indignant drivers, and city noise, a drive into the interior will fill it. About a 1.5 hour drive west along Route 232 brings you into the quiet hilly stretch of Serra das Russas (the Russian Hills.) Farms and tiny city municipalities dot the verdant landscape, while roadside vendors linger on the 232 selling sacks of oranges, strawberries and other locally grown produce. A drive to the town of Gravatá generally means 2 things: you're either passing through to see Passion of the Christ at the Nova Jerusalem Theatre during Lent along with hundreds of thousands of people, or-- you made a reservation at one of the "hotel fazendas" or farm/resort/hotel for the weekend. Either way, fresh air and cooler weather make a great combination for trying something new.

It totally felt cliche and totally weird when we checked into the confines of our "all inclusive" resort, Portal de Gravatá: rolling manicured lawns, rows of loungers, pools, playgrounds, and eager, yellow shirted recreation staff who lined the day with activities. All weekend long the staff enthusiastically offered fishing, horseback riding, games, crafts, movies with popcorn, karaoke, even mechanical bull riding- a never ending summer camp. Meals (not drinks) were included in the price, so three times a day we marched into the great spread of cafeteria style Brazilian food: starch, meat, fruit. Repeat.

One really cool aspect about the resort is their sustainability program. Portal Fazenda uses low energy lighting, and they recycle- a big commitment considering everyone drinks bottled water and there's an ongoing love affair with soda drinking in Brazil. Gardeners save all the pruned foliage and leaves which are mixed with the ready supply of cow poo to make fertilizer. Although I didn't see any pigs, the recreation staff mentioned they take leftover fruit and veggies to feed them the scraps.

Their garden was spectacular. It was here that I finally ate decent tomatoes, almost as good as the ones in Romania. At dinner time I hoarded the romaine lettuce and radicchio too, make-shifting the leaves as hamburger buns, since well... I had already eaten a baking-sheet pan's worth of toasted coconut bread for breakfast.

After check-out we did attempt to drive around Gravatá proper to get a feel for the town but most shops and restaurants were closed, main church boarded off. Instead I spotted the brown signs indicating landmarks pointing up to visit "Alto do Cruzeiro," a lookout point with a statue of Christ and along with waterfall symbols. As we drove higher up, the neglected roads finally become impassible with piles of junk and detritus blocking the way. It seemed that Gravata had little on offer so we headed back to the highway. Turns out there's Gravatá- then there's tourist Gravatá. On the way out we found the cafes, craft stores, and furniture stores: all high quality products made locally. The tidy, cobbled street was short, but gave an inspiring indication that the town has a lot more on offer.

Would I come back for another round of Catskills lodge living circa 1963? Probably not. It was cute and tranquil but not my taste. But we definitely plan to revisit the towns and scenery off Route 232. The hills might only top off at 1,467 feet elevation, but views on offer remind me that Brazil is more than coconuts and beach.