Namib-Naukluft National Park

When I started my pack-buy-hoard research for camping, I kept coming across frustratingly vague details for accessing the Namib-Naukluft National Park, where the Hartmann mountain zebras had an entire section to themselves. Sure, I learned that this park is 4th largest in the world at 40,000 km2 (between the sizes of Maryland and West Virginia), and where to start and finish the famous 8-day hiking trail, but I couldn't figure out whether entry permits needed to be purchased ahead of time, or if I could literally drive up to the entrance and get one there. All I could ascertain was that it was required.

I called the Ministry of Environment and Tourism, but the number was disconnected. It took me quite some time to figure out which building I needed to visit (because of course the address wasn't listed) and when I did, the secretary, a spitting image of Roz from Monsters Inc., couldn't be bothered to answer questions. Without missing any texts from her phone, she slid a paper under the glass to fill out. I assumed this to be permit paperwork and BOY oh BOY would my friends be impressed by my preparation! Next goal: to not lose the stamped piece of paper.

Turns out, any old Joe can drive to the main entrances of any park in Namibia and buy a permit straight from their car which is what most people do. I also learned that Sossusvlei Desert is part of the Namib-Naukluft Park, which... doesn't mean anything. I was just happy that my stamped piece of paper counted for two park entries instead of one. 

Anyway. About the zebra park. The entrance reminded me of Jurassic Park with rolling valleys paired with mountains beyond mountains, an inspiring teaser for how many secret animals the land would hold. I'll tell you now how many zebras we saw: zero. I'm not surprised, considering how shy and skittish they are, but it was still disappointing. The guide books also talked up a storm about the other animals we'd likely see: golden moles, oryx, ostrich, birds of prey... the usual sorts one sees in Namibia. All we saw were baboons. Lots of baboons of all sizes just loitering along the trail. Taking in the situation, Mark and I were shocked to see how little everyone else cared about them being so close- particularly with kids around.  Maybe we are too cautious, but having watched Baboon Wars and Planet Earth enough, we're okay with cautious.

We hiked anyway, choosing a 10km (out and back) that promised natural pools and caves. Up we went, dodging baboon eye contact. Loaded to the gills with water bottles, our pace was slower than usual, but it also meant I got extra workouts when those giant, black, shiny-butt bees flew around me. I should totally let a bee loose during an Insanity® workout to really up my game. Mark implored me to control myself. I tried my best.

Loads of people took advantage of the hot sun and natural pools, but we hiked on, hoping the crowd would dissipate by the time we came down. Of course by the time we made it down, baboons took over the pool, likely scavenging for forgotten food. Deets held back tears as we denied him the chance to swim, and it just about broke me. We continued back to the trailhead after having to bush wack to appease the extremely stern looking baboon guarding his brood and guzzled beers before hightailing it back to the campsite. In short, yes the scenery was pretty. And since I'm not allowed to have regrets on a meh sort of hike-day, I'll say we LOVED the hike and everyone held hands singing camp songs toward the end. Even if we didn't.

The entrance couldn't have been any farther away from where we stayed.

Starting off fresh: 11:30am.

Powering through.

Baboons staking their territory.