Christmassy Venice

When we arrived to Venice by way of Rome, Johannesburg, and Windhoek, I anticipated cooler weather, cute sweaters, and languorous walks through the city famous for its canals, history, and culture. What I got was bone-chilling humidity, snow pants, and speed walking in order to keep warm in the city also famous for its prices, mean seagulls, and crowds. 

I only half jest. I got all of the above, because when you are married to a man who studies European history with fervent enthusiasm, you get to space out when the walking gets boring and listen to fascinating stories of Venetian battle, diplomacy, and religion as told to a 6 and 8 year old. One of my biggest complaints about the Rough Guide to Venice was that it was hard for me to read. It just didn't have a narrative that I like. Mark's was better.

As we walked through St. Mark's Basilica, he spoke of the  gorgeous relics. "Many of the the pontiff jewels, gold chalices, thousand year old pottery, tools and paintings were the spoils of the Crusaders sneaking into Constantinople, ancient Turkey. Thieves, they were!" 

When gazing down at the Rialto Bridge, Mark talked about Venice being a European powerhouse since it had a strong navy and thriving economy, manufacturing and shipping out textiles, weapons, armor, and other goods. The bridge, built to connect two neighborhoods facing each other on the Grand Canal, also served to increase sales and trade. The current opulent facade of the bridge shows off Venice's historic wealth. Before that, the bridge was rebuilt time and time again. One time it collapsed under the weight of too many people during a revolt (that backfired). Another time it caught on literal fire. Architects built the final bridge out of marble and it is "single span", anchored at each end with no support in the middle.

I had opportunity to show off a bit too, talking about infections and plague doctors, prompting David's desire to buy a mask, which he wore throughout the duration of the trip. 

Cool stories and COLD weather. Mark was horrified to see me in public wearing snow pants, a neck gator, and hiking boots, but I had to sacrifice fashion for feeling even moderately warm. Most mornings were thick with fog and temperatures rarely got above 45F. We were lucky if the sun came out, but even then it felt miles away. So when none of us could take the chill (or walking) anymore, we would duck into a cafe for espresso, wine, or both. The meals, though crazy expensive (meals for four people plus drinks, usually wine cost about 100-120 Euro). It was also the trip where I learned that my kids eat adult portions. 

Schlinks love to walk, hike, wander, and explore. So do the Ripleys (Grandma and Grandpa) but even after 10km, we all got tired. The only thing that might distract Mark from walking an additional 15km would be a soccer match. So it was a pleasant discovery to find that Venice FC was playing Cosenza, an Italian city nearly 10 hour's drive south, at the stadium right down the block from our Air Bnb. I was willing to sacrifice being a cold in exchange for a break from walking. 

When attending matches in Italy, and likely throughout Europe, ticket purchases require passport identification. Mark got our tickets which were hilariously in the old-white-guy stands. No one moved a muscle except for their screaming mouths, until halftime when the stands emptied for cigarette breaks. The cheering section adjacent to us was steadfast throughout the game, singing non-stop for 90+ minutes. Venice didn't win, but the experience was just as awesome as the last match we attended.

Four cold days and one Christmas holiday later, Venice was finished with us. Onto: Slovenia.

Sinking tower in Castello neighborhood

Some of the nicer looking graffiti.

Warm-up break. There's an extra fee if you sit versus stand.

Photo credit: Margo. When you visit the Fondaco dei Tdeschi and climb to the top,
you get a free rooftop view of the Rialto Bridge,  and a panoramic view of the city.
Make a reservation on the iPad stand if there are crowds. Otherwise, just walk right up.

Top of Fondaco dei Tedeschi

The details

View of Church of San Giorgio Maggiroe
A view we didn't intend to get when we took a wrong turn
and ended up walking an extra 4km. FUN.

Gramps, or Grampie as Margo calls him.

St. Mark's Basilica: erosion from too much touch.

Wandering the neighborhoods.

Venice FC

If you walk between the pillars of Saint Marco and Saint Theodore, you are guaranteed bad luck.
It used to be the site of execution for all to see in Venice.

Plague Doctor, Jr.