America is currently cold as hell. Girl, Kazakhstan feels you. January weather around here has not been for the faint of heart, plunging as low as -27F, and that’s without a wind chill! Last week, thousands of people around the city willingly dunked their bodies into the Ishim River to celebrate Epiphany, a holiday that represents the baptism of Christ/Jesus, when the city was at its coldest. Participants would step down a set of wooden stairs, cross themselves, dunk three times into the ice laden river, and step out on a second set while onlookers and paramedics watched. People love this event, despite the indoor bickering I hear daily (and contribute to) about the Siberian witch’s tit cold.
As a result of extreme and dangerous temperatures, we spend more time indoors than I like. The city uses a central, steam heating system to prevent pipes from freezing so when the outdoor temperatures dip, the indoor temperatures soar. Dwellings and public places are heated to an extreme. Our foyer and kitchen are so hot, we have to wear sandals to keep our feet from burning. The dog pants and tries to find the best cool spots in the house, while we crack windows to balance out the intensity - but it feels like a messed up version of Lisa Simpson’s fish sticks from “The Last Temptation of Homer” (season 5, ep 9). Going outside takes at least ten minutes to gear up, and admittedly, is one of my excuses to avoid doing anything. I have to remind myself that malls, restaurants, arenas, and theaters have stellar coat check services to deal with the layers of clothes we have to wear.
So, winter. We deal with the snow and wind, try to avoid frost bite, and spend a lot of time indoors. Life in cold Kazakhstan is not any different than what people do in cold America: I read, doomscroll, workout, rage clean, nap, eat… and embrace the mindset of sucking it up and getting outside, even if taking the dog for a walk is less than the time it takes to dress and undress. I attend as many sporting events, concerts, and activities as possible to catapult my inertia into action. I’ve joined sketching sessions, tried Pilates and archery, and failed to enjoy a snow bath after roasting in the sauna
Recently, I enjoyed an amateur English comedy show that featured only female comedians. Screw any bravery for going outside, these women got on stage to a sold out audience and told jokes in their second, third language.
We have at least three more months of snow and probably five months before Astana feels spring-ish. But for now I look forward to next week with a balmy 20F forecast.
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| Epiphany dunk on the coldest day of 2026 |
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| sending screen shots to my bestie with a sad face |
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Free office space: the coffee shop artist led drawing classes |
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| So much hockey. All the hockey. |
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| Looking at murals without getting out of the car. |
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| Banyaaaaaaa, drink, repeat |
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| Basketball at the Velodrome |
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| Warming up in one of the millions of coffee shops. Frequently. |
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| Buying new shovel parts. Again. We've gone through 5 so far. |
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| comedy night at the Wein Bar. she was riot. |
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