Getting One-Upped in Etosha

During our nine hour driving escapade in Etosha National Park, I thought I had a pretty good handle on my elephant viewing repertoire: three here, one there, and later spotting seven more elegant, gray creatures in the distance. Finally, upon exiting the Andersson Gate at 5pm, a group of four sauntered across the road single file. I felt pretty smug, until I saw a girlfriend’s Instagram account showing twenty around a night-time watering hole, babies included. I also read that Etosha is home to only about 2,485 more. I got royally one-upped. 

I have to tell you, Etosha is HUGE. The white pan of nothingness is easily spotted from outer space. It would take about ten hours to drive across the park, and that is assuming you don't take any detour roads,visit the waterholes, or stop to pee. The place has something like 340 different types of birds, 46 of which are raptors. There's 144 different mammals, 50 kinds of snakes, and 134 different types of flora. 

Whether you see any them depends on two big factors: water and luck. The best time to go is during the winter months, so June, July, and August are ideal. It's less hot, and with low precipitation animals are more likely to head to the watering holes. I say luck because most of the animals are not tagged, and also because visitors have a funny way of guarding "their" animals. They don't want to share their "secret stash sightings," yet remain irresistibly boastful of what they saw. For example, while we were photographing elands on the side of the road, another driver casually mentioned that he saw lions first thing upon arriving and gestured vaguely in the direction of where he saw them.

Most of the day was pleasant but boring, with short episodes of excitement. At one point we drove towards a large line of vehicles, each jockeying for position to see whatever was in the bushes. Naturally, we followed suit. Soon we saw two black rhinos that were growing increasingly agitated. I can't blame them. They were basically cornered with vehicles parked on two sides of the triangular piece of land. If a charging rhinoceros isn't enough to scare you, then you are insane. I know they can't see particularly well, but since our car was in its direct line of sight and only slightly larger than it was, I was convinced one swipe of its horn would do us all in. I think Mark's fear was already used up last year, when he had to untangle fencing wire from our drive shaft while elephants walked past, because he was happy as a lark. He snapped photos of these endangered creatures who ran towards the car. Whereas I, literally had to change my underwear. What were the kids doing? I don't even remember.

After that exciting drama, we found ourselves at another watering hole. We watched a giraffe stoop down to drink, enjoying real zen and beauty despite growing hunger pangs for everyone in the car. Shortly thereafter, we saw another fascinating sight: a man chucking large rocks and logs into the bushes so he could park his rental truck. You aren't allowed to be out of the car in Etosha unless you're at a rest stop, because: lions, leopards, charging rhinos, etc.  He also had a flat tire, and we watched in utter confusion as he drove the truck into soft sand. Mark got out to help and found that the Swiss man and his wife had no idea they had flatted. They also had no idea how to get their spare tire out from underneath the car. So Mark showed them the secret hole at the back of the truck where the Allen wrench tool is inserted to release the tire. 

Swiss Man broke his, so Mark grabbed ours. While our tool worked to get the tire down, it got stuck in the secret hole because Swiss Man had recently backed his truck into a pole. And, when he crossed the Namibian border, had his license taken away because he didn't have any money to pay the fine for losing both license plates in Botswana. 

The kids and I watched Mark troubleshoot their mishap. We watched Mark slide underneath their car, getting his backside covered in the fine off-white dust. We watched him squat behind the car, muscles flexed in an effort to extract the stuck tool, which he did successfully. We watched Swiss Man's wife pull out a tissue and delicately wipe Mark's sweaty brow in obeisance. I had to change another pair of underwear. 

On another detour, we followed a huge game drive truck and got stopped at a spot where several cars were log jammed. There was a leopard in the road and everyone was hell-bent on seeing it. I enjoyed the novelty, because how often do you get to see a leopard? However, other cars took it very seriously, swerving far left and right to get a view. They couldn't get one though, because of the  game drive truck. One car opposite us insisted on driving in reverse. The driver behind us wanted to lay on the horn to make the other vehicles share the discovery. I could see his rage-y eyes and feel his impatience. Luckily no one cut off the nose to spite the face. Aside from engines idling, all was silent. Eventually, we all got our chance to see the beautiful creature.

Finishing up the day, we drove through a zeal of zebras where one kicked my car. We spied more birds, towers of giraffes, and of course the parade of elephants. We were spent. The kids were crabby, whining that they didn't want to look out the window anymore, Mark was hungry, and I had run out of underwear. It was time to get back to the lodge for a drink to celebrate the day's work of sitting on our asses. 

Photo credit: Mark

Photo credit: Mark

Female impala

Grumpy black rhino

Knight in corduroy shorts

Photo credit: Deets

Photo credits: Deets

Photo credit: Margo

Sundown at Etosha

Mark Goes on a Bike Ride

On any given road we take, whether in Namibia, Brazil, or literally ANY other country we've set foot in, Mark scrutinizes the countless miles driven, judging them on one thing: how much fun the roads would be for riding a bicycle. He looks at the quality of pavement, gravel, sand, or dirt. He looks at the shoulder, the paint job, and the guard rails or lack thereof. Most importantly, he looks at climbs and descents. 

Ever since I've known him, Mark lives by the thrill of steep hairpin descents, the supreme reward for enduring the long climbs. So after our last camping trip off the C26 two months ago, Mark was sold on riding my his single-speed cyclocross bike from Windhoek to the Rooiklip campsite. Approximately 160 kilometers long, this unpaved road would take him past hundreds rolling hills and up and over Gamsberg Pass which has a wicked descent into the edges of the Namib-Naukluft region. 

Mark started training the day after we got back. He also recruited a friend to join him, someone who was in Namibia this past year on a Fulbright Fellowship, teaching writing at the University of Namibia. This guy, Peter, earned his badge early on by riding the hilly streets of Windhoek every single day on a very large Giant mountain bike. He defied careless drivers as he rode across the city with a ball cap shoved underneath his helmet, his backpack half on, and a notebook, pen, and book crammed in the chest pocket of his shirt. Always: with a notebook, pen, and something to read while waiting at red lights, during dinner parties, or at the grocery store.  Little did he know how handy they would come in during the BIG ride...

Mark was so diligent. He cut out junk food and alcohol, and committed to using his bike trainer which he set up on our patio and rode during the weeknights. He'd haul out a small table and set up his iPad and speaker on it to pass the time as his legs would churn over and over. During the weekends he would toss in a couple water bottles into his car and drive away with his bike for rides that would last 4, maybe 5 hours. 

Mark's post-cycling routine was always the same: His unitard-onesie bike shorts looked like soggy lingerie as they'd dry in the bathtub, while his jersey was often left on the ground for days, stuffed with uneaten Clif bars and bike tools. His snotty, wadded up gloves were usually left in the garage, and his water bottles grew a peaceful, peach colored algae from the warmth of the Namibian sun. Oh but his bikes (if you know us, we own a few) would be cleaned, shined, greased, and prepped with the care of doting  model train enthusiast.  

To say he nearly died a few times on these long rides would be dramatic. Mark did however, put himself into danger two times, running out of water on dirt roads that offered zero services, zero shade, and next-to zero traffic. The first time this happened, he managed to hitchhike the last ten kilometers where an Afrikaaner farmer proceeded to chastise Mark's stupidity before dropping him off at the car. Mark managed to drive home in a state of heat-exhaustion. He stumbled up the steps and crashed on the floor of our living room where I cooled him down with ice packs in his arm pits and groin.

The second time he ran out of water, he got trapped behind the gated entrance of a friend's farm in the mountains outside Windhoek. And, in these neck of the woods, you can't just go driving down to the house to ask them to open it. Unexpected guests + gun owners + large swaths of property do not equal a good idea. So he had to wait for someone who was leaving the property to open the padlocked gate. One hour later, this wish was granted along with an extra bottle of water. Mark promptly drank that bottle and, promptly threw it back up. It took him hours to keep down fluids, and longer to recover from the lactic acid that dehydration brought. 

Third time's a charm, he hoped, and it was. To do the ride, we coordinated three waves of people leaving Windhoek at different times. I left first, two hours after they started their ride, which meant I had the most waiting to do at the campsite. By the time I caught up, the two were in great spirits despite the fact that Mark had flatted five times. Mark had already gone through his extra tubes, so he was enjoying the dusty sun. His friend happily sat in the shade, reading his book and taking notes.

Restocked, watered, and apparently very well rested, I left the men to their riding. They would get assisted two more times, so indeed they were in very good hands. I knew that logically, but regardless, my mind drifted to doubts and fears. Could he make it without flatting more? What about distracted drivers? What about heat-stroke? What about the lack of guard rails? What if there was an angry baboon or warthog? In the end, he did flat more. Mark's tires gave out four more times that day. Luckily, there were no distracted drivers, only a skiddish troupe of horses. It wasn't hot-hot, no one flew off the side of the mountain, and they only encountered an eland that stared them down with disdain. 

At 4:30, the sun was already low so I picked up Mark and Peter twenty kilometers from the end, a gesture they appreciated shortly after seeing the road conditions. The backside of Gamsberg finally received rainfall which meant all the spots we remembered as orange and brown were now hues of neon green and yellow. It also meant the roads were either washed out and very rocky, or thick with sand. They were conditions that despite their physical fitness and mental wares, would be difficult to manage after hours in the saddle. The piled into the car and I drove them back to the campsite where we would feast on steaks and red wine. 

The camping was exactly how we remembered it with the leathery landlords, the farm dogs, Tippy the baboon-shepherd, Linus the fat zebra, and Number 7 the donkey. We had the brilliant stars, the hot, dry hikes, and the same vast spread of hills and mountains. Only this time, we shared it with friends who are pretty much family as far as I am concerned. 

After all this, is Mark sick of riding? Not exactly. In fact, he is more in love than ever. Just today he rode 112 kilometers of Namibian roads. Except this time he did it on 100% pavement. With his road bike. And no flats. But he still ran out of water.

Km: 0 at sunrise
Mark and Peter

Km: 0.05
Godspeed.

Km: 50, flat #5

Km: 50, Peter using his time wisely
to come up with ways to describe
the desert without using: vast, hot, or dry.

Km: 140

The NEW, watered Gamsberg.
Green green green (for Namibia, anyway).

Last drag of the road to Rooiklip.

Stars of all kinds.

German Karneval

At the end of March and beginning of April, German Karneval hit Windhoek full force with royalty nominations, parades, games, sausage and beer drinking, and massive parties to gear up for Lent where sobriety and fasting take over. Namibia has been celebrating their version of German Karneval for 66 years, but this year's celebration was bigger than ever because Deets' hip hop dance got to perform during Juka (yoo-kuh), aka Youth Karneval. Only kids aged 16-26 are allowed onto the premises unless you are royalty, related to royalty, or a stage parent for the performers. 


Stern, square jawed ticket takers clad in red blazers and soldier hats admonished me for my tardiness, which was all of five minutes past 7 o'clock. Reluctantly, they let us cut the line past the throng of teenagers who were bottle necked at the entrance and told me that I was not allowed to leave until after his performance, which would be at 9:20pm. I dropped David off backstage was left to my own devices. 


Wandering through the dance hall, I grabbed a beer and watched the crowds of teenagers. Many were proudly swigging full bottles of cheap wine while others double fisted bottles of beer. The kids were dressed in pithy Halloween costumes or in rhinestone-sequined gowns and heel, that would no doubt chafe their underarms and ruin their feet before the night was through. 


The emcees and brass band were on stage warming up the crowd with coarse German chanting and Bavarian music that everyone seemed to know by heart.  Dancers also took the stage wearing white boots that went up to the knee, short skirts, spanx, and vests. There was a lot of red lipstick and a lot swaying, straight arm raises, chorus line kicks, and cartwheels. And so. Many. Encores. Unsurprisingly, the entire show was spoken in German. 


Luckily, because they were all of German heritage, I knew the schedule would run on time, so I spent my time remembering what it was like to be a teenager (I'm so glad I'm not anymore) and why I didn't see any other parents hanging around. Turns out, all the other the parents were classically Namibian and decided to drop their kids off and leave, no matter what the entrance people said. 

Finally, around 9:18pm, the crowds on the floor parted as a line of deafening Harley Davidsons drove in the older Fusion Funk dancers. The younger kids followed on bicycles, and for those who didn't know how to ride, or happened to get flat tire at the worst moment possible, they walked in like a group of tiny, David Bowie thugs. 9:20pm, the music started and the kids did their hip hop thing, and the crowd went wild. 

A few minutes later they ran off stage and did their encore, per the demands of the cheering crowd. I spent the remainder of my evening carrying Deet's bike with a flat tire and waiting for him to remerge from the dance hall. He had decided to disappear into the drunken (yet harmless) crowd and collect champagne corks from underneath the tables and benches. That kid kills me sometimes.

The C26

It seems that the famous Namibian C28 road that connects Windhoek to Swakopmund has a little competition: the C26. It's an unpaved road that takes you south by southwest from Windhoek to the edges of the Namib Desert and the C14. The first climb out of the city might be unimpressive, what with the potent smell of the Kupferberg landfill, but after that, the landscape takes over. Campsites, guesthouses, and D-roads chase one another down the gravel, as the kilometer signs barely seem to budge in the direction of Walvis Bay. The numbers seem to stuck in the mid-200's and never seem to decrease. Baboons, goats, and warthogs dash across the road and in the distance, springbok, cattle, and zebra might be seen grazing. It's on the C26 where the entertaining lodge names start popping up like Melrose Place, Weener Farm, Corona Guest Farm, the Hakos Astrofarm and best yet: Weissenfels Guest Farm which has an honest to goodness Vortex Center. They deal with things like ethnomedicine, healing crystals, and labyrinth walks. I don't even know what that means, but I want to sign up. Immediately. 

Along the way, mountains turn to hills and back to mountains. The most notable one being Gamsberg Mountain, which has a flattop peak easily seen in all directions and is thick with quartz.  With zero light pollution and steep climbs, it's a huge draw for nighttime photographers and brave 4x4 drivers. We drove down Gamsberg Pass, which takes the cake in steepness and beauty of bald commiphora trees, nary a guard rail to slide into. We were warned watch out for Hartmann mountain zebra and indeed, nearly drove into a set of four who were trotting along the roadside. Further down the pass, leafy green trees start to peter out as if the gods ran out of paint, giving way to an area known as the Valley of 1,000 Hills. It's literally where thousands of hills colored in shades of cream, tan, brown, and orange are squashed between a desert and a mountain range. "Protected" from the forces of cloud cover and rain, this region hasn't seen moisture in about three years. Inhabitants depend on bore hole water sources. 

From a distance, the hills seem to roll into each other continuously. However up close, many of the hills have deep crevasses that once upon a time, were carved by water. Leopards, caracals, and jackals hide here in addition to zebra cobras, as we found out. While hiking between a rock and a hard place, Deets encountered a black and white striped cobra. Despite his unmistakable announcement of "there's a cobra in front of me!" he continued to advance on the snake as if hypnotized. Deets only snapped out of it when Mark and I started yelling at him to stop. I caught up next to see the snake poised upright to defend itself. We gave him a wide berth and watched him until he calmed down and slithered away. 

This was an excellent teaching moment to review snake safety. All of that seemed to go well until Deets protested " I needed to get my fright on because I'm a reptile too! That's why I kept walking toward it!" Well, of course he is. 

On another hike, the kids, Mark, and I scared off a jackal. Not two minutes after that, Deets fell behind to inspect a rock overhang and while his back was turned, a very large caracal ran between him and me. It ran down one side of the canyon and up the other, with its unmistakable black-tipped ears tipped backwards.  Prepared as always, my camera was in my backpack. During this same hike in the river bed, we passed vacant beehives embedded into the canyon wall, zebra carcasses, and large cat footprints left in the dirt. 

When we weren't hiking, we drove the 4x4 trails at the Rooiklip Guest Farm, where we camped over the weekend. I don't know if I will ever get over the exhilaration of cresting a mountain and not being able to see over the hood nor the path down below, or navigating past rocks of agreeable size. The views were cool, but we didn't see any animals along the way. At one point we saw a truck speeding over a mountain top, heading in our direction. It was the owner of the farm, a researcher, and a farmer who were in hot pursuit of their lost shepherd baboon. You heard me. The farmer had a trained baboon to herd the goats, and he got lost. They stopped just long enough to ask if we'd seen him and get annoyed that none of us had any idea what they were talking about. Good news for them, they found the shepherd baboon and put him back to work the next day.

This is exactly why I love Namibia. 

I also love Namibia because we get to stay in ecclectic places like Rooiklip. The owners, Hannelore and Frans, are leathery old Germans who have turned their land into a gorgeous oasis focused on conservation and solar power development. Some of the walls are built with beer bottles, and they are mid-project building a recycling center behind the lodge's kitchen. Interns come from the Technological University of Munich for school credit and research projects. While we were there, the interns spent a lot of time surveying land with twine grids and punching data into solar-powered laptops. 

We camped at one of their three campsites that were located under a rock overhang. While we didn't have electricity, we did have three sinks, a shower, and flush toilets all to ourselves. The star stuffed nights were filled with a peaceful silence that made the buzzing in my head all the more noticeable. Between the campsites and the lodge was the animal pen for the fattest zebra I have ever seen. His name is Linus. They have a donkey named Number 7 and an oryx named Jonathan, plus a bunch of dogs (and a baboon shepherd). It was just the kind of place that makes you want to return to again and again. I am certain this is going to happen sooner than later. 

Campsite #1 at the Rooiklip Guest Farm

1,000 Hills and 1,000 reasons to love this kid.

Zero light pollution.

Bee Trail at Rooiklip.

Meditating by the pool.

The snake's status by the time Mark arrived. 

Trails of 1,000 Hills

Collecting orange sand.
Gamsberg Mountain in the background.

Gamsberg at sunset.

Traffic on the C26.

Shooting Guns with Namside Tactical Services

Last month, I organized a day at the shooting range. The owner, Uys Prinsloo (pronounced Ace), is a true blooded, hard core Namibian and owns a company called Namside Tactical Services. They offer a large round of services: target practice, shooting under fire, shooting while injured, trauma first aid, combat training, etc. He also owns a cattle farm, runs a very busy anti-poaching organization, and does volunteer work teaching self-defense for the various forms of communities, tribes, and incomes around the city. He's the kind of guy who has been around guns his entire life as he grew up hunting in the bush with his father. 

The opportunity to visit a shooting range was a big deal, because in Namibia, shooting ranges require that visitors are licensed with their own firearms. I learned this when I started making phone calls, asking if there was any sort of a Shooting 101 opportunity. They all said "yes, but..." 

Even getting a firearm into the country requires permission, paperwork, and patience. Buying one locally requires a lot more. Uys offered us the opportunity to use his company's firearms, so I accepted with obvious enthusiasm. For me, it was a unique opportunity to fulfill my son's gun roleplaying aspirations and my daughter's natural curiosity try something new. Mark was happy to tag along, since he hadn't practiced shooting in over 25 years. The only time I ever shot a gun was 14 years ago at my best friend's wedding. Yes, her wedding. As a parent, I want to educate and protect my kids, especially if it is over things I am nervous about. Like, guns. (And snakes and spiders.)

A group of us went on this venture: 11 adults, and 7 kids, all with varying degrees of firearms experience. After a safety discussion and demo, the adults would lay hands on a James Bond pistol, a Mark Wahlberg laser guided carbine, and a Tomb Raider-like shotgun. The top five shooters were then "gifted" the opportunity to shoot a Dirty Harry. The sheen of Dirty Harry's metal gave me the heebie-jeebies. This gun meant business on no uncertain terms and the recoil was so so powerful. Everyone's arms flew high into the air after each shot. I technically didn't score high enough to try it, but Uys offered more than a few times. After the first three, though, my curiosity was sated. Shooting has never been my thing, so when I did hit a clay target, I jumped up hooting for joy. It was enough movement that the instructor promptly removed the gun from my sweaty grasp and ordered me off the field. I was okay with that. 

Once the adults were done playing, the kids got to practice shooting cans with an air rifle. A few of them used their impressive gaming skills and shot quite successfully, and not all of them boys. It was pretty awesome. Both of my kids got bored after the first round and opted to run around on the mountains instead. After the firearms were secured, we then brought out the beers and braai meat to close out the day. 

I made trophies for the winners: Best Shot, Best Worst Shot, and Best Kid Shot. This was without a doubt, the best part of the whole event. I know that makes me sound like a crafting nerd, but I rarely have a low-cost inspiration crafting idea, and the trophies cost me zero dollars, so I was too excited to hand them over with regal circumstance.

The other day, I ran into one of the instructors. Mario couldn't but help to share the good news: after months and months of paper trail, he finally purchased "the gun of his dreams." He showed me a slide show of it on his phone, he was so proud. "Here's my gun getting delivered! Here it is again on the table. This one is of me, of course, holding the gun. And here it is at another angle..." he said,  reminiscing.  Mario begged me to do another event with Namside so we could all have a go at his newest baby. The people who run this company are so infectious, and serious, and excited about they do, it would be hard to say no. Even if guns are about the last thing on earth that I would ever be into.

Uys is all smiles whenever he's out here. 

The black dots were where we missed.

Dirty Harry

Part of the combat training course.
The kids were desperate to shoot the car.

Prizes to be had. All you have to do: be the best or worst.

Erick Mwiya's Katutura Tour

View from the top of Katutura,
behind Fidel Castro Primary School.

Last July, there was an article in The Namibian featuring a young man named Erick who made a name for himself in the world of tourism as a professional and independent tour guide within Windhoek. This article spurred an interest to visit a town mostly unknown to locals and to get to know someone trying to make real change.

Erick Mwiya was originally from Katima, a town in the Caprivi region over 1,300 kilometers from the capital, is best known for its stop-over value on the way to Victoria Falls. It's a place where elephants make the rules and safari operators seek refuge and restocking after emerging from the bush. The town is hot for Zambia travel as there's a recently opened bridge over the Zambezi river. Erick returns home every Christmas where he hops onto a donkey cart after having driven for 15-16 hours to visit his family's farm and reacquaint himself news of the north. 

Twenty-seven years ago Erick lost both of his parents to alcohol poisoning. Unable to continue with his schooling after grade one, Erick went to live with extended family, doing what many Namibians are tasked with: finding work and surviving. By age 14 he ventured south to live with an uncle in Windhoek, or rather, Katutura, the infamous township where blacks were forced to live during South African rule in the 1950's. A Herero word, Katutura means "the place where people do not want to live." Squeezed together in tight quarters, yet tribally separated, creating community and solidarity was impossible. The new location also meant no access to gardening or farming, little to no access to education and medical care, and long commuting distances to the city, usually by way of overcrowded buses or unlicensed taxis.

Finding work for Erick was difficult. He partook in many menial jobs before finding a job as a taxi driver. For several years Erick drove people around, contributing to his family, and saving what he could. Naturally loquacious, he would talk to anyone who joined him on the road even if they didn't speak the same language. A lot of his trips involved driving back up north, so the hours were spent learning to communicate with his passengers. Before long, Erick was fluent in local 7 languages including English and a bit of Portuguese, tools that would prove to be invaluable with his next career step. 

Erick credits a lot of his early success to his old taxi boss who encouraged him to do more. So when his clients asked him about real life in Katutura, he saw an opportunity to educate outsiders on the dynamic realities of living in a place that today, still functions without plumbing or electricity. There are no pipes to provide the tin houses with running water. Instead people load money onto fobs that operate the water access points. Residents must store their water in whatever container available and hand carry them back home. There are no toilets, not even drop ones, only the trash dump to do "big business" as Erick tells it.

Erick went for it. With the blessing of his family and community, he started Mwiya Tours and Transfers a couple of years ago. The cooperation of the community was vital. He wouldn't have been able to do this venture otherwise, because one of visions is that visitors get to meet with locals and share their personal space. Guests enter windowless shacks, walk past personal showers and gaze at the pile of cow skulls tucked away in outside corners. There's no trash service either, but the bones are anything but trash: Meat Co., a Namibian company has a program called Meat Ma that sells cow heads, legs, and entrails at N$40 ($3 USD) for the whole set. Buyers take them home where the meat is stripped off the skulls and legs, piece by tiny piece, and hung out to dry in the sun. They are a main source for nutrition, frequently paired with pap, a corn based porridge. Leftover skulls are also dried and will be used as fertilizer for the family farms. 

The vices of living rough are everywhere. Every neighborhood in Katutura has bars stocked with liquor, beer, and tombo, an illegal sugary home brew. The neighborhoods are filled with drugs and marijuana, if you know where to find them. But as a white person, don't ask because they won't tell you. Narcing is something they take seriously. Prostitutes do what they can to survive and unfortunately, it's almost never worth the price. HIV-AIDS continues to be a problem, (here and throughout the country) as are orphans left behind. It paints a deary picture, but Erick tells the stories with blazing candidness. He knows the solution lies far away especially with corruption, lack of funding, and overall disorganization of a new country trying to make its way in the 21st century. 

He doesn't let himself think about the injustice too much, because he has his priorities: managing his company, and taking care his family, particularly the younger ones. Erick visits two of his younger cousins, one who will study biology at the University of Namibia, and other who should have left a few days ago to start the 11th grade. Instead she stayed home, unmotivated to make her way into the city. Erick responds not with anger, but love and patience. School starts Wednesday and he will drive her himself if he needs to. He tells her that education is the only way out, and hopes she hears him. When asked about whether he'd ever go back to school, he responds with a firm "no" but acknowledges that he's been studying Islam for the past couple of years. He calls it his perfect religion and enjoys the time spent exploring God and praying under the guidance of his teacher, who also works with Erick on his English. 

Every tour ends with a visit to a local market for lunch. The unbeatable smells of fried fat and meat linger in the street. The markets sell beef which doesn't require the same stringent testing standards as game meat (oryx, springbok, kudu) does. There are several aisles of dried goods: mopane worms, grains, beans, and spinach, followed by lunch tables where drinks and breads are served for about N$40-60.  Down the next aisle is the butchery where the slabs of beef are chopped apart with whatever is available, though usually it's an axe. Some cow heads stare blankly on the darkened bricks ready for sale, but the choice cuts of the cow is what really sells here.

The butchery tables provide easy, fast access to the grills where piles are meat are cut down to finger foods, seasoned with salt or kapana spice and sold at N$50/plate. The fires are readily restocked from the last aisle, where people are chopping logs of wood. Grease, wood chips, and flies are everywhere, but with the sensational meal that is about to take place, none of it matters. Erick says white people should only come with someone legit from the community, otherwise service might not ever happen.  

He loves to watch the reactions of his guests, who eat with either alacrity or suspicion. Either way, this is downtime for him to sit and evaluate what they liked best or least. He offers language lessons to the lingually inspired or settles into a comfortable quietness after having spoken for 3-4 hours straight. A brief reconnaissance of the market finishes the tour, and it's time to head home. Usually, he is scheduled to do airport pick ups thereafter. It is evident Erick likes to keep busy not just because of the money, but he says people walk away from his tours with a deeper appreciation and respect for Katutura. He has a hard life, but it is still a beautiful one because it is lined with hope: maybe he can be part of the change that Katutura desperately needs by doing it one tour at a time.

Tour with Erick: 
https://www.facebook.com/mwiyatoursandtransfers/
http://www.mwiyatours.com/

Windhoek West

Plate of plenty for a price.

Enjoying some cookies while their
the moms received bags of nonperishables.

Water station.

Keeping cool: out and away from the hot tin.

Private shower. 

Piled for safe keeping until the next trip north.

Meat drying day. One head and four legs
will feed the family for a week.

Meat drying day.

Saturday morning walk.

The most recent spread of Katutura to the west.

View of Windhoek from Katura. Coffee Pot Museum (National Museum of Independence) to the far right. 

Mopane worms.
Highly nutritious but
 seasoning is necessary.

Before.

After:
Kapana,  traditional Namibian grilled beef, seasoned with
 kapana spice (orange).