Schlink Attack: Northern Namibia Road Trip

During the school term break, Mark and I took the kids on a massive road trip from Windhoek to Victoria Falls. Our intentions were simple: to get a feel for the tropical version of Namibia, and to see a big-ass, famous waterfall. It would take us 1,441 km (895 mi) of tar road, from thirsty landscapes, to farms, to river rich jungle. We'd drive through 4x4 restricted park reserves, and float on pontoons in hippo and croc infested waters, and forced to stand still whilst watching the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen. There's always going to be "one more thing" we want to see, and though we still have about 6 months left at post, it was also the trip meant to prepare us for the long goodbye, as we frequently make in the Foreign Service.

From Windhoek to Otiwarongo, the Namibian landscape ranges rises and falls along the Khomas Hochland Plateau, and melts into the Central-Western Plains. Distant mountains and hills on either side of the highway contrast the monotonous blur of thorny trees, shrubs, and grasses. There are miles of barb-wired fences separating the properties and sometimes we can see the sequestered game such as springbok, wildebeest, or kudu, or escape artists dangerously skirting the berm next to the tar 2-lane road. Hundreds of warthogs also dot the berm as they eat leaning on their elbows, and rumps in the air. It's the B1 highway, where supposedly everyone follows the posted speed limit of 120kph (75mph). It's the most traveled road for anyone headed north or south, so after the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th time driving it, it's kind of boring.

After the 2.5 hours to Otjiwarongo, the B1 splits into northwest and northeast directions. We split right, headed to Otavi, one point of the isosceles "Triangle" with Tsumeb (B1) and Grootfontein off the B8. It's a triangle of expansive green farms, mineral mining, and the gateway to the Otavi Mountains which you notice almost immediately. The uncharacteristically green mountains are notched by dramatic cliffs and stratified brown-orange rock formations. Among the spread of peaks is Ghaub Cave with its underwater lake, and ancient rock carvings. It's deep, dark, and dangerous, a perfect experience for hard core spelunkers. Maybe it would be another trip for another time (NO. WAY.)

For outer-space lovers, The Triangle is also home to the Hoba Meteorite, a giant slab of metallic rock that was excavated in 1920 after a farmer's plow scraped the top of it. An estimated 66 tons, it looks like a big piece of burned lasagna (from its iron content) from a distance. Up close, the shine of nickel and cobalt is evident from the hundreds of slice marks it has suffered from vandals. Though a quick 10 minute visit is all that is required to see Hoba, it's an excellent detour from the B8 (about 30 extra kilometers).

The northeastern tour continues through Grootfontein (2.5 hours from Otjiwarongo) a town that seems nice with its strip mall and jacaranda lined streets. Once topped off with gas, the remaining 2.5 hours worth of driving to Rundu would prove to be physically painful from all of the sitting, but also the most interesting visually. The fences and expanses of farmland disappear, replaced by expanses of makalani palm, baobabs, and marula trees, and small plots of corn or mahangu in between. Tiny homes are constructed of local materials such as clay, wood, or grass, without obvious signs of indoor plumbing and electricity. Cone shaped, thatched roofing sit atop the homes that sleep up to four people.

Pedestrians are also seen in abundance as they make their way to/from home, work, or school. Many carry plastic containers, likely headed to the nearest well, others with multiple bags filled from visits to the city. With decent timing in the morning or afternoon, hordes of children are seen out and about on the roadsides, usually wearing smart, matching school uniforms. Brightly colored dresses and skirts for the girls, shorts and button down shirts for the boys. The kids are either barefoot, or wearing white socks with black shoes though everyone else seem to wear flip flops. As usual, the wee ones linger behind the older children who make their way home, but it is evident that they all look out for each other, and few are seen playing in the road. Goats and cattle, however, cross the road in a fashion leisurely enough to force drivers to a complete stop.

The B8 has roadside vendors selling hand-carved wooden and soapstone animals. The sell miniature and large canoes, locally called mokoros, and decorative mobiles. There's also pottery of various sizes and uses. Most often seen are bundles of wood for sale. Further north and northeast, the bundles of wood turn into bundles of dried reeds and grass that were harvested from the many rivers that contain actual water (in addition to crocs and hippos). The reeds are frequently used to make fencing or shade, whereas the grass can be weaved into mats. Bargaining for these various items is expected, and often draws enthusiastic participation, especially if the shopper is clearly from out of town or has no idea "how it's done." Once a price is proposed, the sellers shout back to their cohorts in their mother tongue. If accepted, the seller and whatever children are hanging around give head nods, and the transaction is completed.

After you hit Rundu, the B8 turns east for about 634 km (394 mi) to the Botswana border. It's mostly a straight line that is dotted with people, homes, and farm life, but at the same time, passes through unfenced national parks, Bwabwata and Chobe, which flow into Angola and Botswana. The former has three core areas that offer 4x4 trails along the Okavango River called the Mahango Core Area, Buffalo Core Area, and Kwando Core. All three are worth exploring either by personal vehicle or organized game drive if staying at a nearby lodge. While you might not get as many wildlife sightings as Etosha, the lush greenery, water, and solitude more than make up for it. These factors make for more interesting photos.

Our big hope was to see the last of the Big Five, the cape buffalo. We were also hoping to get lucky and see cats or wild dogs, but neither happened. However, while driving in through thick orange sand on our way to a delta plain, we were surrounded by more elephants than I have ever seen in my life. We checked off nearly every bird in our bird book, and saw families of vervet monkeys, Windhoek's equivalent of baboons in this neck of the woods. A few antelope species were new to us too, including tsessebe and reedbuck. Each with distinct markings, but all with the classic deer-in-the-headlights stare.

We drove and saw animals until we were numb in our butts and brains. Looking back week later, I would definitely do it again.