Schlink Attack: Pangolins at R.E.S.T.

It isn’t very often that people talk about the cuteness of long tongued, scaly creatures that can roll themselves into tight little balls. But maybe we should. Namibia is, after all, a country with rare and fascinating species hidden throughout the land. This includes the pangolin, an anteater famous for its unique integumentary with keratin scales that cover the body. Keratin is a fibrous, structural protein found most often in hair, horns, claws, and hooves. People love adding keratin to hair and nail treatments because it reduces frizz and supports structural integrity.

Pangolins love it because the material forms a protective shield like a suit of armor. When a pangolin is threatened, it rolls into a ball forcing its tapered and very sharp scale tips into the air. Keratin makes a decent defense mechanism, internally and externally. Africa and Asia are home to eight species, and Namibia has one that is known as the Cape pangolin, Temminck’s pangolin, or the ground pangolin. A Dutch zoologist humbly named it after himself in the early 1800’s. At any rate, these reptilian-like mammals love a diet of insects that are easily sucked into the mouth with the use of its tongue, which is about the length of the pangolin itself.

Ground pangolins walk on their hind legs, which makes them look extra adorable when they amble side to side.They stand like a stooped and earnest retiree, with their forelegs and curved claws tucked into the chest. Their shiny dark eyes and button noses make them look extra innocent. Researchers once thought that babies were born with soft scales which harden after being introduced to extraterrestrial life. Now they think, according to Maria, Director of the Rare and Endangered Species Trust (REST), is that pangolins when under stress (like in captivity) tend to give birth prematurely and the scales actually should harden in-utero.

Why does this fact matter? A few reasons: one, the internet isn't always correct. Two, animal experts know very little about pangolins, and that is a problem because they are listed as “critically endangered” and are the most trafficked animals in the world. Hunted for their meat and scales, pangolins are coveted and used in traditional medicines. They are in huge demand in China and Vietnam. Though an international ban on trade should protect them, illegal hunters still collect them by the hundreds. Conservation efforts are underway, but other factors such as illness in captivity, ulcers, pneumonia, and intestinal worms can inhibit a pangolin’s ability, and desire to reproduce. They are very sensitive, easily stressed creatures.

REST is based out of Outjo, a 3-hour and 45-minute drive north on the B1 (or from our drive out of Vic Falls, a 13 hours drive). This non-profit organization focus- es on conservation efforts especially aimed at the Forgotten Five: cape griffon vulture, cape pangolin, dwarf python, spotted rubber frog, and the Damara dik dik. It’s the only center in the world where baby Cape pangolins have been raised successfully and monitored until prepared for full release. REST offers lodging and tours by reservation only, and is considered the best opportunity to see rehabilitated pangolins. Honey Bun and Amos are their current pangolins. Maria speculates that Honey Bun might be ready for release, and at the time of our visit had been on a three day walkabout.

Amos, however, is a lifer. He had broken leg and ripped out scales when he arrived. Vets thought he'd die within the week, but the lil' guy made a big turn around, accepting food from his caretakers, something that rarely happens. Though his leg has mended, Amos still walks with a limp, limiting his ability to walk the required 5-6 hours to get enough ant or termite nutrition. He can only walk up to two hours before he needs to be carried home. Amos literally has a personal walker that follows his path whenever out and about to ensure his safety. Mark named the sport "Wranglin' the Pangolin" as we followed Amos through thorny brush and ridiculous amounts of overgrowth. He finally took rest under thick under thick branches that made picking him up quite difficult. We all walked away in fading light, bleeding and covered in splinters, but happy. Later that night the BBC would be filming Amos and the REST employees for a pangolin special.

Yes, the pangolin was the main attraction, but REST also has a few other animals either on the mend like Max the warthog, and a few owls who arrived injured, or there permanently, such as the two cape griffon vultures who came from a bird show based out of casino in Johannesburg. They tried to release one of them after making a full recovery, but the bird kept coming back. So now it stays. Some of the other vultures have busted wings and cannot fly. REST's goal is 100% release, and receive different kinds of animals from all over the country, and may or may not have the same residents each week.

Jacky is another lifer. An abandoned jackal pup, REST has attempted to tame Jacky and use him as a teaching opportunity when the non-profit does outreach and fundraising events. They do need money to treat and feed the animals, after all, so fundraising is a necessary part. And, for anyone who thinks conservation efforts are cozy and altruistic, you'd be wrong. Competition for money, resources, and attention is fierce and not always friendly.

A tour at REST requires booking in advance, but is easily done. The tour is worth the money (55 USD) too, as the employees are amiable and have a lot of knowledge to share. Or you can book a stay at their camp site or bungalows, which allow for a personalized tour as well. We were the first ones to stay in their newly constructed bungalows. The rooms are tastefully decorated, the beds are comfortable, and they provide a mini fridge, a braai, and dishes and towels. REST asked us for some pointers on improving the bungalow, and we suggested an electric kettle and floor fan. There is no AC, they do not intend to put it in, preferring to keep things simple and low cost. At one point we all laid on the concrete floor in our underwear, sweating out the afternoon hours before going on our tour, but overall it was a fantastic stay and the tour was 100% entertaining and valuable. If anyone comes to visit before our departure in August, we will definitely make a point to visit REST again.